Greenstone Caples

Getting there

Left on Boxing day. Took us about 6 or 7 hours to get to Kinloch
Kinloch camp site is very basic. Run by DoC – 7$ pppn. Honesty box type registration. Long drop and no running water. There is a lodge next door with restaurant and showers.
We ate Mickey D’s for dinner that we bought in Queenstown. An excellent idea that we shall do again.
Noisy neighbours turned up around 10pm and spent absolutely ages putting their tent up and making a lot of noise. Jerks.
Looking forward to the 3 nights, 4 days of tramping. Have never camped outside of designated campsites before. It means there is some uncertainty as to where we will pitch our tent every night. Proper tramping. Exciting.

SAM_8383

Walking Times According to DoC

Trail Head to Upper Caples hut = 16km, 3.5-5.5hr
Upper Caples hut to McKellar hut = 13km, 5-8hrs
McKellar hut to Greenstone hut =18km, 4.5-6.5hrs
Greenstone hut to car park = 12km, 3-5hrs

Day 1 – Starting Out

Packs are pretty heavy. Sim’s about 15kg, V’s about 12. Sim carrying stove, tent and food. V carrying tent poles and pegs.
New boots with superfeet inserts. Mountaineering boots not meant for tramping on well formed trails, but we needed to break them in and we don’t own anything else.
I had the camera for a change and actually remembered to get it out and take pictures. Very unusual for me.
Simon had his brand new Contour camera.
Had lunch around mid day just past the Mid Caples Hut. Would be a nice place to camp as there are some pools near by that you could swim in. Saw a helicopter land near one of them.
Lunch was roast beef sandwiches . Leftovers from Xmas dinner.
Long hike after lunch – was also hot. Started getting worried as we did not know at one point how much further to the camp site. A DoC ranger was hiking in the opposite direction. Chatted to him for a few minutes and he suggested camping across the river past the Upper Caples Hut. Glad we chatted to him. Gave him a Dinosaur sweet.
Passed some elderly hikers. Two ladies returning to the hut after picknicking while their husbands were off fishing. Much fitter than us. Never saw them on the trail again.
Fantastic campsite. Lots of sandflies.
Awesome little Robins were super friendly. No fear. Perched on our feet eating sandflies off of our socks.
Thought it was raining in the morning, but turns out the sound of millions of sandflies hitting the inside of the tent flysheet sounds the same as drizzle.

SAM_8408

Day 2 – Up and Back Down again

Got lost in the forest about a half hour after starting out. Spent ages trying to find the trail and looking for the orange blazes. Eventually had to retrace our steps back quite a ways before we found the trail. Finally understand how people get lost in the woods. Lots of things that look like a well trodden trail aren’t.
Mostly uphill. lots of tree roots. Hard work going up. Would not like to do in the wet.
Looks like they are blasting a new path up the pass.
Relieved to get to top of pass.
Relieved to get to bottom of pass.
Thought it would be a short hike from the bottom of the pass to the hut and then to a camp site. Thought wrong. Dinosaurs help a lot though.
Relieved to find place to camp and sit down at last.
Huge blisters on my feet. None on Simons. Evenings entertainment was popping and cleaning them out.
Ate freeze dried meal for first time. Excellent! Lamb and veg came with a side of smash. Nice. Will do again.

SAM_8461

Day 3 – Getting a Bit Tired of This Walking Thing Now

Stopped after 1st hour and took my boots off. Sim Cut a piece out of the insoles to try stop them rubbing the blisters on my instep.
Tiny bit of drizzle after lunch. Lots of helicopters flying in and out of the valley. Apparently the fishing here is good.
Passed a big group of hikers going in opposite direction and what seemed to be their guide bringing up the rear a while later. She commented on our matching boots.
Passed another DoC ranger not long before crossing Steele Creek. They always stop to chat and write your names in their notebooks. Our matching bright yellow boots will make us more memorable.
The day dragged on. It was exhausting.
Decided not to go down and cross the gorge near the Greenstone hut as we were concerned we would not find somewhere to camp and would have to walk all the way back up. Kept walking. Glad we did.
The Israeli boys passed us again as we were making camp. We suspect they were going to be finishing the trail that day.
Completely shattered. Walked over 9hrs today and covered more than 20km. Had enough now.

SAM_8488

Day 4 – Not Much Further

In high spirits today knowing it is our last day and only a couple of hours to walk.
Most of trail spent in amongst the trees. Occasionally glimpsing the river. One really pretty spot would be nice to go swimming in, but difficult to get down to.
Simon is a trekking pole convert now. He always laughed at the idea of them, but since giving one a try, he has now permanently appropriated one of mine.
Something ate our toffee pops. Seems a mouse or something managed to get into the car and nibble on some our munchies. Don’t know how it got in, but presumably it left the same way as we have never seen it.
Grabbed a huge KFC burger, chips, and drink in Queenstown. V threw it all up on the way to Tekapo.
Hot shower courtesy of the Wheeldons in Tekapo – absolutely bliss. Can’t walk anymore- everything hurts.
Still glad we did the tramp. It was hard work for us, but worth it. Need to get fitter and do more of this.

SAM_8510